Note: It's a good idea to do this bit next to a city map 

Princes Street is the central street of Edinburgh and the historic boundary between the Old Town and the New Town. This division is easy to see on a map. The Old Town has narrow, winding streets that grew naturally over centuries, while the New Town is planned, symmetrical and orderly- a product of the Scottish Enlightenment.

Before the Enlightenment, Edinburgh was overcrowded, dirty, and repeatedly hit by plague (the Plague killed around half of the population in Edinburgh) Unlike in many European cities, household waste was often thrown directly into the streets, flowing downhill into the Nor Loch, which served as the city's open sewer. You couldn't escape the smell and disease. 

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Scotland became a city of intellectual progress, producing thinkers and inventors who believed cities should be healthier and more beautiful. The New Town was built to relieve overcrowding, though comfort was largely reserved for the wealthy. At the same time, the polluted Nor Loch was drained and replaced with what you now see around you, Princes Street Gardens.  

Princes Street Gardens have a long and interesting history

Near Ross  Fountain

What is now a peaceful green space was once the foul-smelling Nor Loch. From here, there is a striking view of Edinburgh Castle, which has stood on this rock since at the least the 12th Century. Originally, it was known as the Castle of the Maidens- a name whose true origin remains a mystery. 

One popular but incorrect theory links the name to legendary maidens from Arthurian myth. The irony is sharp, as centuries later, around 300 people were executed for witchcraft on the castle's esplanade. 

The Scottish witch trials, beginning in the late 16th century, were amongst the most severe in Europe. King James VI, the first Protestant king of Scotland, fuelled the hysteria with his book Daemonologie . Fear spread rapidly, and neighbours turned on one another. 

Many people accused of witchcraft were tested in the Nor Loch itself: if they floated, they were guilty, if they drowned, they were  innocent. Of the thousands accused , around 75% were women.  

Wojtek the Bear

This is not just a symbol or a legend- he was a real bear! Believe it or not, he actually became a soldier during WW2. In 1942, a group of Polish soldiers found him as a young cub in the Middle East and adopted him. He was officially enlisted in the army so he could travel with the unit and receive rations. 

Wojtek quickly became famous for copying the soldiers. He learned to salute, wrestle and drink beer. During the Battle of Monte Cassino in Italy, he actually helped to carry crates of ammunition. His image- a bear carrying artillery shells- became the emblem of his unit. 

After the war, Wojtek came to Scotland with the Polish soldiers and lived at Edinburgh Zoo, where he became a much-loved figure. Today, he is remembered as a symbol of friendship, resiliance, and the shared wartime history of Poland, Italy and Scotland. 

New College is the second-oldest campus of the University of Edinburgh, built in the 19th century. It still functions today as the School of Divinity, which focuses on the study of religion. Because of this, a statue of an important religious figure stands in the courtyard: John Knox. 

John Knox was a founder of the Church of Scotland and played a key role in establishing Protestantism in the country. Like the Reformation itself, he remains a controversial figure. 

The Reformation greatly increased education in Scotland. Protestant belief emphasised that individuals should read and understand the Bible themselves, which led to large-scale efforts to teach people to read and write- including women. As a result, Edinburgh quickly became one of the most educated capitals in Europe. 

However, the movement also had serious drawbacks. John Knox strongly opposed women's equality and openly expressed this in his writings. The Reformation also caused irreversible damage to Catholic cathedrals, artworks & religious texts. 

The street is about one mile long, which is why we call it the “Royal Mile.” It connects two very special places: Edinburgh Castle at the top and the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom. For many centuries, this street was the main road of the Old Town.

The Royal Mile began to grow in the Middle Ages. People built tall houses, shops, and narrow side streets called closes. These closes were very busy and full of life. Many different kinds of people lived here—rich and poor, merchants, travellers, and even royalty.

Because the Royal Mile connected the castle and the palace, Scottish kings and queens used it often. Important events such as parades, celebrations, and royal visits took place here. It was the centre of political and social life in the city.

Over time, the Royal Mile changed. New buildings were added, and old ones were repaired. Today the street is famous for its history, its traditional shops, its street performers, and its beautiful old buildings. As you walk along the Royal Mile, you are walking through hundreds of years of Edinburgh’s past.

Victoria Street is one of the most colourful and charming streets in Edinburgh, but it is also quite young compared to many other streets in the Old Town.

It was built in the 1830s as part of a plan to make the city easier to move around. Before this, the area was a maze of tiny, crowded lanes. The city decided to create a new curved street to help traffic flow from George IV Bridge down to the Grassmarket.

The street was named after Queen Victoria, who became queen in 1837. Its unique shape and design were very modern for the time. The tall buildings, curved road, and split-level shops made the street look different from the older parts of the Old Town.

Over the years, Victoria Street became known for its independent shops, such as bookshops, clothes stores, and places selling local crafts. Today it is one of the most photographed streets in Edinburgh. Many visitors love the colourful shop fronts and the views down to the historic Grassmarket.

Some people also say that Victoria Street helped inspire Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books, although this has never been officially confirmed. Still, the street’s magical atmosphere makes it easy to imagine!

The Grassmarket is one of the oldest and most historic areas in Edinburgh.
It sits just below Edinburgh Castle and has been an important part of the city for many centuries. The name “Grassmarket” comes from the time when this area was used as a market for horses and cattle. Farmers came from the countryside to buy and sell animals, and the space was always busy and noisy.

From the 15th to the 18th century, the Grassmarket was also known as a place for public executions. One of the most famous of these stories is of Maggie Dickson, also known as "Half Hangit Maggie". She was sentenced to death after being accused of hiding the death of her newborn child. She was hanged here in front of a crowd. 

However, as her body was being taken away in a coffin, Maggie came back to life. She had survived the hanging, possibly because the rope was loose. Since she had already been legally executed, the authorities could not hang her again. Maggie went on to live for many more years, becoming a local legend. Now a pub in Grassmarket is named after her, which is a serious marker of significance in Scotland. 

Despite these dramatic stories, the Grassmarket was also a lively centre for trade, meetings, and celebrations. Inns, pubs, and shops grew around the square, serving travellers, soldiers, and local people. Its location at the foot of the castle made it an important point for trade routes coming into the city.

As we stand here today, we can enjoy the atmosphere while remembering that the Grassmarket has seen everything—from busy market days to dramatic historical events.

Questions for students:

• What kinds of crimes do you think would lead to execution? 

In Greyfriars Kirkyard, you can find ancient graves, parts of The Flodden Wall, and maybe some Harry Potter characters ...

The Flodden Wall is one of Edinburgh’s old city walls, and it was built for protection. The wall was constructed in the early 1500s, after the Battle of Flodden in 1513. At this battle, Scotland suffered a great defeat, and King James IV was killed. People in Edinburgh were afraid that the English army might come to attack the city next, so they decided to make stronger defenses. 

This historic cemetery holds reminders one of the most advanced medical schools in Europe. Scientific discovery required a steady supply of fresh bodies to study anatomy, but the bodies provided by the council were not enough. Adverts began appearing around the city asking people to volunteer to donate their bodies, many found this deeply disturbing but poverty was driving people to desperation. 

As a result, some people began stealing bodies from graves and selling them to University. Others went even further. William Burke & William Hare are among the most infamous serial killers in Scottish history. They killed 17 people and donated the bodies to medical schools without being caught. Burke was executed and later his body dissected at the University of Edinburgh, while Hare escaped punishment by giving evidence against him. 

You will see metal bars around some of the graves, revealing the hisory of graverobbing. In the early 1800s, Edinburgh was famous for its medical schools—but this created a big problem. Doctors and students needed real bodies to study, but it was difficult to get enough for teaching. At that time, the law only allowed the bodies of criminals to be used. This meant there were not many available, and demand was very high.

Because of this, some people began to steal bodies from graveyards. These men were called “resurrectionists” or grave robbers. Graveyards like Greyfriars Kirkyard had to build high walls, watchtowers, and heavy iron cages called mortsafes to stop the robbers.

The most famous case is the story of Burke and Hare. Instead of digging up bodies, they murdered people and sold the bodies to Dr. Robert Knox, a well-known anatomist. Their crimes were discovered in 1828. Hare turned witness, and Burke was hanged for murder.

Greyfriars Kirkyard is also famous for a much happier story: Greyfriars Bobby. Bobby was a small Skye terrier who, according to legend, stayed by his master’s grave for 14 years after he died. Local people cared for him and left out water and food, and when he passed he was buried in this cemetery. 

Give the students 15 minutes free time to find mortsafes and the names of Harry Potter characters; they should be able to find Tom Riddle, McGonagall & Moody

This well preserved kirk has recently marked its 900th anniversary. Over almost a millennium, it has witnessed wars, revolutions, and fierce religious conflict. It is closely associated with John Knox, who preached here in the 16th Century and played a central role in establishing Protestantism in Scotland. 

A century later, the church became the setting for an event that helped to trigger one of the most dramatic periods in British history. In 1637, the unpopular King Charles I attempted to impose a new English style prayer book on the Scottish Church. When it was first read here, it caused outrage. According to tradition, a market women named Jenny Geddes threw a still at the minister, sparking a riot. The unrest spread across Scotland, deepening opposition to the king and contributing to the English Civil War, which ultimately led to the execution of Charles I in 1649- the first execution of a reigning monarch in England. 

This is one of the most striking landmarks in Edinburgh. It was built in the 19th century to honour Sir Walter Scott, one of Scotland's most famous writers. Designed in a Gothic style, the monument looks like a dark stone spire rising above Princes Street Gardens. At its base sits a statue of Scott with his dog, Maida. 

The monument is decorated with statues of characters from Scott's novels, celebrating his influence on Scottish literature and identity. Visitors can climb the narrow spiral staircase inside for panoramic views of the city. The Scott Monument reflects how deeply literature shaped Scotland's national pride during the Victorian era. 

Questions for students:

• Can you recognise any of the statues? 

• Can you name any other Scottish writers? 

Calton Hill It is a popular spot for tourists to enjoy a short walk to the summit, and it also serves as a venue for public events such as the Beltane Fire Festival. The hill's collection of monuments, inspired by ancient Greek architecture, has earned Edinburgh the nickname "Athens of the North".

You can finish the tour here, or ask if the group would like help finding buses home. If the group are staying in the centre for a while, you can point out St James' Quarter for good shopping opportunities